Growing Capsicum, also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers

Capsicum annuum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      S S              
        T T T          

(Best months for growing Capsicum in Australia - tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 64°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 8 - 20 inches apart
  • Harvest in 10-12 weeks. Cut fruit off with sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Egg plant (Aubergine), Nasturtiums, Basil, Parsley, Amaranth

Your comments and tips

11 Sep 11, (Australia - arid climate)
I think you can. we have planted seeds from the ones we buy at the markets and they grow well.
06 Sep 11, sarah (Australia - temperate climate)
I tried growing bell pepper capsicum from seeds, they were about 10cm big with about 2-3 sets of leaves and i tried to move them to a bigger container. i lost 3 out of 4 as they seem to wilt as soon as i moved them. i fertilised them and watered them in but what could i have done wrong, have i damaged the roots?
09 Oct 11, Farm R Tim (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Capsicums do have very large sensitive root systems, it is best to do the final transplant as soon as possible. (:
09 Sep 11, Roberta (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Sarah Your timing seems OK, size wise and leaves etc. It’s hard to know what you did without being there, but here's a few transplanting tips to help you figure it out: - a week before you transplant, harden them off a bit by moving them out, especially if you've been raising the seedlings in a protected place i.e. shade house. Maybe also boost them with a light liquid feed first, not too much nitrogen - water them first so the soil or potting mix is moist, otherwise all the soil will just fall way, exposing and disturbing the roots - wait for the soil to be moist, not too wet, when you take them out, and tease the roots out gently, disturbing them as little as possible. It’s the fine root hairs at the ends of the roots that take up water so if they break off they can’t take up water - the hole you plant them in should be big enough to accommodate the roots without scrunching them in - after planting, don't fertilise until they've settled in, say a week or so. You can water them in with seaweed solution as this helps them settle. Protect them from wind and direct sun for a few days until they adjust - basically it's all about reducing transplant shock as much as possible Roberta
01 Sep 11, Heather (Australia - temperate climate)
I am also south of Adelaide and would like to know where to buy seeds for Bell Peppers.
12 Oct 11, Tony (Australia - temperate climate)
From what I understand Bell Pepper is the American term for Capsicum, so basically anywhere!!
23 Jul 11, [email protected] (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I am living in Coffs Harbour, NSW and have never been able to grow Capscums in pots in this area. Please can anyone help with some advice and tips?
17 Jul 11, (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
whats the best variety to grow in caps or eggplants for comercial growing just moved hear in bilpin nsw like the new seedless eggplants
22 Jun 11, Sandy (Australia - temperate climate)
I have found that with chillies and capsicum (and paprika) that I can cut them back in winter and get a second year out of them. They seem to be more productive in the second year. I have 2 capsicum that I have cut back to see if I can get a third year from them. Has anyone tried this? My chillie is about 5 years old and paprika is into it's 3rd year.
31 Jul 11, Joyous (Australia - temperate climate)
I have done this with both chillies and my capsicums. I have done 3 years with one capsicum and providing they are fed well will produce another crop. I have not gone beyond this though. As for my chilli plant... well, it's into it's 5th year also and cropping well. Joyous
Showing 311 - 320 of 430 comments

Hi Barbara, I had the same thing happen last year, those plants somehow survived a very hot wet summer and through autumn produced masses of fruit and are also now producing masses of new fruit after I pruned them back hard and started applying a vegetable targeted liquid plant fertilizer with seaweed included. I also added lime around the plants and sprayed the leaves with a bit of epsom salts dissolved in water around the time I pruned them. Don't give up on these ones give them a prune at the end of winter and they will come back for you, if you live in a cooler area you may have to wait til spring but if you get no frost they will come back bigger and better when the weather warms up later this year, caps do last longer than one year and I find they produce much more in the second year than the first, when they put most effort into producing strong stem and branch to support the weight of the following years fruit. Honestly one plant that did this weird year long wait had about 11 fruit on it in March. Sometimes it's better when they start out slow, good luck mate.

- Alison McGregor

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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