Growing Capsicum, also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers

Capsicum annuum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
  S S                  
      T T              
      P P              

(Best months for growing Capsicum in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 64°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 8 - 20 inches apart
  • Harvest in 10-12 weeks. Cut fruit off with sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Egg plant (Aubergine), Nasturtiums, Basil, Parsley, Amaranth

Your comments and tips

07 Feb 15, wale (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
Can I plant red bell pepper seeds directly into the ground without transplantation from the beginning In Nigeria, West Africa and how long can a red pepper plant produce continuously?
07 Feb 15, Charlotte (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Capsicum rotting from inside out. Look like they are wilting and soft. Can we redig the rotten ones into the patch? We have had very hot summer in QLD, would that be a factor. We currently have chillis growing without much problem in the same patch. Some chillis are a bit soft and wilted looking,but we have had a great success with the chillis. Cooking chillis does that make them less hot? As we are finding they aren't that hot. Also how do we dry chilli? Thanks
26 Jun 15, Matt MCGrath (Australia - temperate climate)
Charlotte, lack of calcium is basically the only cause of the capsicum blossom end rot. That is the brown soft spot that grows on the bottom of Capsicums and tomatoes. Two reasons are that to much fertiliser in the preparation of the bed causes the available calcium to go to the leaves instead of the fruit. The second and main reason is that the bed should err on the alkaline side of the scale. When preparing beds for such plants put a handful of lime of dolomite lime for every square metre in the bed a month either side of any enriching of the bed, as manure will deactivate the calcium. Now is be preparation time in temperate areas.
14 Jun 15, Rex (Australia - temperate climate)
Your probably cross pollinating if you are growing chilli's and capsicum in the same spot. The chilli's will become less hot with each new crop and the capsicum will get hotter.
16 May 15, Peter Melbourne VIC. (Australia - temperate climate)
Charlotte, Sometimes my capsicum would rot at the bottom, so I looked it up and it was stated that TOO MUCH fertilizing can cause the problem. I put any suspect ones back in the compost so not all is lost. As for the chillies, there are hundreds of varieties all with different heat levels, Cooking does not temper them the only thing you can do is remove the seeds before using it. I dry my chillies by threading them onto a length of fishing line and hanging it in a sunny window in the kitchen. They look quite decorative. It will take a few weeks to properly dry them. Store them in jars and use as needed. Hope this helps.
01 Feb 15, Shanni (Australia - temperate climate)
My capsicum plant started growing the long narrow chilli shaped capsicums but now on the same bush it's growing a traditional shaped one that's green? How and why does this happen, can someone explain please? Thanks!!
16 May 15, Peter Melbourne VIC. (Australia - temperate climate)
Shanni, Last summer I had the same thing happen to me. When I looked into it I had planted a variety called Sweet Mix (capsicum annuum), the long ones are yellow or red and the "normal ones" are mainly green but if left some turn red. They all taste good too! Hope this helps.
31 Jan 15, Neville Graham (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Capsicum ,small variety,falling off bush before ripening. Bush is healthy. Any clues why this is happening
08 Apr 15, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Are they stung by fruit fly? I loose quite a lot during the warm weather but when it cools off and there are no fruit fly around I don't loose any.
30 Jan 15, David (Australia - temperate climate)
The rotten spot could be sun scald (whitish) ...but, if it is rotten on the bottom end of the fruit it is most likely bottom end rot and the plant needs calcium.
Showing 221 - 230 of 521 comments

Hi Jen, This is a bit late because you are maybe 2 months into your work but I planted a similar garden in raised beds at the start of Sep/16, my first time with most of these plants. Put the strawberries in their own patch because they have different requirements to everything else and will try to invade the surroundings via their runners (stolons). Try to keep stolon production to a minimum unless you want baby plants, in which case let the runners root in separate peat cups and then cut+transplant when they look big and healthy, but not too big because they will punch through the peat and start rooting in the bed where they sit (you can use plastic instead of peat, but the peat ones go straight into the ground when you transplant). I had mediocre fruit production when the strawbs were planted last year but mega crops this year (27 plants). Don't keep them too wet, be on regular lookout for slugs, tear away old leaves which promote rotting and fruit turning, fortnightly seaweed with a splash of fertiliser for the leaves. Rosemary becomes a full-grown bush - put it where you would want a hedge and cut it back twice a year, esp after flowering, to encourage a nice full shape (it will shoot rather vertically otherwise). Rosemary doesn't need much water or fertiliser, I use some slow-release and let rain do the rest except for prolonged dry spells. Zuccs and cukes get quite large, so make sure you allow at least a foot between plants because they come on really quickly from seedling. I got fruit in about 2 months and they are still going now, don't let the fruit sit too long or they can get quite huge quite quickly, tending towards being woody. Zuccs I find can start to yellow when the flower falls off, so keep an eye on that. Also give the cukes some support to climb, otherwise they will just spread like a kind of moppy mess over the garden bed. Basil I did from seeds, they are annuals so just get a packet and put some down about a foot in front of your tomatoes, they do well as companions. The basil can get to about 1-2 feet high if really happy. Capsicums I managed 6 in two rows of 1.2 m, they are quite slender plants and don't need heaps of space like tomatoes or zuccs. These are nearby the tomatoes as they have similar requirements. I also chucked in two chilis that look very happy, consider this as you get capsicum + basil + chili + tomato in one go = a meal waiting. Lastly toms - IMO the most difficult to keep happy. They need more water and fertiliser than the other guys and get wilty more quickly in hot weather. My main tips in my second year with cherry toms is to limit the number of branches you allow, because they will get tall and thick really quickly. I planted mine 1 ft apart but they are a little too close, I'd try 2 ft next time around. You need staking or cages obviously, but in 3 months my toms have gone from 20 cm to about 4 ft, so be prepared for them to outstrip your initial heigh expectations if they are happy. If they are intermediates, they will try to off-shoot at every junction (you can see the baby shoots at the V-intersection between two existing main shoots), so pluck those away everywhere except at the top. You'll also want to thin the tom leaves out because they will get thick and happy and green, but at the expense of fruit. Also remove the lower tom leaves as they can get a bit soggy and disease prone. Buy yourself some garden twine because you'll be at it every week or two to keep the toms supported. I find the toms are quite temperamental, they are prone to yellowing and disease. Keep an eye out for caterpillars, around spring they can come without warning and start putting holes all through your leaves and fruit. I was out daily for about a week in October crushing hundreds of tiny little green caterpillars before they could decimate the plants. Also after excessive water some toms can split, so take those off the vine and refrigerate - eat quickly before they spoil. Any green toms that fall off you can put them next to bananas in the fruit bowl and they'll ripen up nicely. I find my collected unsplit toms last 1-2 weeks in the fruit bowl. Taste is beyond anything in the supermarket! That's my experience, hope it helps. Oh last thing - use good soil to start up, I was filling raised beds so I bought new soil. Next year I will rake in my first year of compost when re-doing the used beds. If you have good soil and it drains, you don't need to do anything else like sand. I used raised beds because I am sitting on clay-type soils with lots of shale under the surface = no good for veggies.

- Tom

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