Your comments and tips

20 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)

Capsicums, like tomatoes, are perennial and will last over winter in a frost free area. We mostly treat them as an annual for convenience. they can get untidy into their second year. if you have healthy plants and no frost there is no reason why you can't cut the plants back or remove the 'leggy' bits and let them keep growing. The other reason we normally treat them as annuals is so we can plant them each year in fresh soil and reduce the effect of any soil-born diseases. Trust this helps.

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17 Dec 16, Denise (Australia - cool/mountain climate)

Can I grow capsicum in the same soil that I grew tomato's in last year.

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20 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)

Capsicums belong to the Solanum family which also includes - potatoes, tomatoes and egg plant (aubergine). They are all susceptible to the same diseases with varying degrees so it is better to plant them in a new location. This is called crop rotation and prevents the build up of soil born diseases and pests. If you have no alternative, replenish the soil with good compost and use a liquid amendment like Seasol to ensure strong healtrhy plants. it's worth a try. Trust this helps.

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05 Dec 16, Julie (Australia - sub-tropical climate)

I picked my first capsicum they looked fine on the outside but when i cut them they were full of small maggots what should i do.

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24 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)

These maggots are fruit fly larvae. As an alternative to chemical sprays you could cover the whole plant with fly mesh or tuille to stop the adult flies from laying their eggs in the fruit. Trust this helps.

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29 Oct 16, Vanessa (Australia - temperate climate)

Can i plant capsicum seeds direct in the garden bed now that its a bit warmer?

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20 Oct 16, Michelle Kidd (Australia - temperate climate)

Hi, I've tried growing capsicum over the last few years but they are always bitter. How do we sweeten them up please? Cheers, Michelle.

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07 Oct 16, Jen (Australia - sub-tropical climate)

Hello! I'm new to gardening and excited to start a small vege garden along my fence line in a raised garden bed. I'm wanting to plant lettuce, capsicum, cherry tomatoes, basil, rosemary, silverbeet, zucchini, cucumbers and maybe strawberries. Any tips on what to/not to plant adjacent to each other would be greatly appreciated. Also, should I be adding anything to the soil (a mix of dry sandy soil and some potting mix) before I plant seedlings? Thankyou in anticipation! Jen

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07 Dec 16, Tom (Australia - temperate climate)

Hi Jen, This is a bit late because you are maybe 2 months into your work but I planted a similar garden in raised beds at the start of Sep/16, my first time with most of these plants. Put the strawberries in their own patch because they have different requirements to everything else and will try to invade the surroundings via their runners (stolons). Try to keep stolon production to a minimum unless you want baby plants, in which case let the runners root in separate peat cups and then cut+transplant when they look big and healthy, but not too big because they will punch through the peat and start rooting in the bed where they sit (you can use plastic instead of peat, but the peat ones go straight into the ground when you transplant). I had mediocre fruit production when the strawbs were planted last year but mega crops this year (27 plants). Don't keep them too wet, be on regular lookout for slugs, tear away old leaves which promote rotting and fruit turning, fortnightly seaweed with a splash of fertiliser for the leaves. Rosemary becomes a full-grown bush - put it where you would want a hedge and cut it back twice a year, esp after flowering, to encourage a nice full shape (it will shoot rather vertically otherwise). Rosemary doesn't need much water or fertiliser, I use some slow-release and let rain do the rest except for prolonged dry spells. Zuccs and cukes get quite large, so make sure you allow at least a foot between plants because they come on really quickly from seedling. I got fruit in about 2 months and they are still going now, don't let the fruit sit too long or they can get quite huge quite quickly, tending towards being woody. Zuccs I find can start to yellow when the flower falls off, so keep an eye on that. Also give the cukes some support to climb, otherwise they will just spread like a kind of moppy mess over the garden bed. Basil I did from seeds, they are annuals so just get a packet and put some down about a foot in front of your tomatoes, they do well as companions. The basil can get to about 1-2 feet high if really happy. Capsicums I managed 6 in two rows of 1.2 m, they are quite slender plants and don't need heaps of space like tomatoes or zuccs. These are nearby the tomatoes as they have similar requirements. I also chucked in two chilis that look very happy, consider this as you get capsicum + basil + chili + tomato in one go = a meal waiting. Lastly toms - IMO the most difficult to keep happy. They need more water and fertiliser than the other guys and get wilty more quickly in hot weather. My main tips in my second year with cherry toms is to limit the number of branches you allow, because they will get tall and thick really quickly. I planted mine 1 ft apart but they are a little too close, I'd try 2 ft next time around. You need staking or cages obviously, but in 3 months my toms have gone from 20 cm to about 4 ft, so be prepared for them to outstrip your initial heigh expectations if they are happy. If they are intermediates, they will try to off-shoot at every junction (you can see the baby shoots at the V-intersection between two existing main shoots), so pluck those away everywhere except at the top. You'll also want to thin the tom leaves out because they will get thick and happy and green, but at the expense of fruit. Also remove the lower tom leaves as they can get a bit soggy and disease prone. Buy yourself some garden twine because you'll be at it every week or two to keep the toms supported. I find the toms are quite temperamental, they are prone to yellowing and disease. Keep an eye out for caterpillars, around spring they can come without warning and start putting holes all through your leaves and fruit. I was out daily for about a week in October crushing hundreds of tiny little green caterpillars before they could decimate the plants. Also after excessive water some toms can split, so take those off the vine and refrigerate - eat quickly before they spoil. Any green toms that fall off you can put them next to bananas in the fruit bowl and they'll ripen up nicely. I find my collected unsplit toms last 1-2 weeks in the fruit bowl. Taste is beyond anything in the supermarket! That's my experience, hope it helps. Oh last thing - use good soil to start up, I was filling raised beds so I bought new soil. Next year I will rake in my first year of compost when re-doing the used beds. If you have good soil and it drains, you don't need to do anything else like sand. I used raised beds because I am sitting on clay-type soils with lots of shale under the surface = no good for veggies.

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10 Oct 16, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)

HI Jen, I'm not an expert, but I've been growing some veggies with various success/failure over the last 4 years in Brisbane. I think most of the plants your putting in like it moist (not soaking) with nutritious soil. Some of your plants will take full sun, but your lettuce may struggle in the jan feb sun. Seedlings are best protected a bit from the ravage of mid day sun, you might want to shade them a bit until they have established themselves. Also, some plants just seem to work better in various garden settings. If I could work out why, i'd be on gardening Australia!! ;-) If something doesn't work in your bed, keep trying with something else. Last year I literally threw in a couple of sweet potatoes onto a large area of unkempt soil. To my surprise they took and grew massive amounts of lovely potatoes. I didn't even try to do anything. Its a good idea to mulch around your plants, to keep moisture in. Good luck .

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