Growing Capsicum, also Bell peppers, Sweet peppers

Capsicum annuum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
  S S                  
      T T              
      P P              

(Best months for growing Capsicum in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 64°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 8 - 20 inches apart
  • Harvest in 10-12 weeks. Cut fruit off with sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Egg plant (Aubergine), Nasturtiums, Basil, Parsley, Amaranth

Your comments and tips

10 Feb 18, Gerald (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Both chilli and bell peppers are growing exceptionally well but a bug is drilling a hole into the top of all of them. The bell peppers are filling up with water and rotting before I know it's happened. The chillis are ok to pick. Have cut the fruit open but I can't see anything inside. Any ideas?
22 Jan 18, zeta (Australia - temperate climate)
just learned about male and female capsicum my question is do I need both seeds or will they grow from either?
31 Jan 18, Brenda (Australia - temperate climate)
Capsicum are like cucumber, pumpkin etc. You plant any old seed of the variety you want and the plant comes up. It will then grow flowers. some flowers are male, and some are female (the female ones have a teeny tiny miniature fruit under them). Little creatures, often bees but some other pollinators too, will flit between the flowers and spread the pollen around fertilising any female (fruiting) flowers that are growing on the plant. Successful pollination, and you should get some capsicums pretty easily depending on when you plant them and where you live. Capsicum like hot weather and long growing season. Often treated an annual down south and a perennial up north. Good luck
26 Jan 18, Mike (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Just buy some seeds or take some from a capsicum and plant them.
26 Dec 17, (Australia - temperate climate)
hi why is my capsicums flowers but not fruiting?
28 Dec 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Check on the internet about capsicum pollination time. I have read that they require a certain temperature to pollinate. Something like 18-23 degrees, not say 15. I have just finished my crop - not the best because the plants were shaded by egg plants a lot. Try watering down at the root zone and not the bush.
06 Dec 17, Bob (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Do i need to stake capsicum
07 Jun 18, Paul (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Yes you do... If they are left, the plants will snap off as the upper fruit enlarges and ripens. Especially if there is any wind.
23 Nov 17, Colleen Noonan (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I am growing a couple of plants indoors with good sun. They look good but every time a flower appears it falls off a few days later. Is it that the soil need some enriching ? One plant is about 40 cm tall and looks so healthy but I doubt if it will ever produce.
23 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
"Do I need bees for pollination? No, bees are not important for pollination. Although you may see plenty of bees in the patch, capsicumĀ is self-pollinated. Bush movement due to wind is sufficient for pollination". You probably have no wind inside the house. Also I have read caps need the temp above a certain temperature to pollinate. I wouldn't recommend growing anything inside - plants need sun - some more than others. Plants like caps and tomatoes need wind to pollinate. Others need bees.
Showing 101 - 110 of 521 comments

Hi Jen, This is a bit late because you are maybe 2 months into your work but I planted a similar garden in raised beds at the start of Sep/16, my first time with most of these plants. Put the strawberries in their own patch because they have different requirements to everything else and will try to invade the surroundings via their runners (stolons). Try to keep stolon production to a minimum unless you want baby plants, in which case let the runners root in separate peat cups and then cut+transplant when they look big and healthy, but not too big because they will punch through the peat and start rooting in the bed where they sit (you can use plastic instead of peat, but the peat ones go straight into the ground when you transplant). I had mediocre fruit production when the strawbs were planted last year but mega crops this year (27 plants). Don't keep them too wet, be on regular lookout for slugs, tear away old leaves which promote rotting and fruit turning, fortnightly seaweed with a splash of fertiliser for the leaves. Rosemary becomes a full-grown bush - put it where you would want a hedge and cut it back twice a year, esp after flowering, to encourage a nice full shape (it will shoot rather vertically otherwise). Rosemary doesn't need much water or fertiliser, I use some slow-release and let rain do the rest except for prolonged dry spells. Zuccs and cukes get quite large, so make sure you allow at least a foot between plants because they come on really quickly from seedling. I got fruit in about 2 months and they are still going now, don't let the fruit sit too long or they can get quite huge quite quickly, tending towards being woody. Zuccs I find can start to yellow when the flower falls off, so keep an eye on that. Also give the cukes some support to climb, otherwise they will just spread like a kind of moppy mess over the garden bed. Basil I did from seeds, they are annuals so just get a packet and put some down about a foot in front of your tomatoes, they do well as companions. The basil can get to about 1-2 feet high if really happy. Capsicums I managed 6 in two rows of 1.2 m, they are quite slender plants and don't need heaps of space like tomatoes or zuccs. These are nearby the tomatoes as they have similar requirements. I also chucked in two chilis that look very happy, consider this as you get capsicum + basil + chili + tomato in one go = a meal waiting. Lastly toms - IMO the most difficult to keep happy. They need more water and fertiliser than the other guys and get wilty more quickly in hot weather. My main tips in my second year with cherry toms is to limit the number of branches you allow, because they will get tall and thick really quickly. I planted mine 1 ft apart but they are a little too close, I'd try 2 ft next time around. You need staking or cages obviously, but in 3 months my toms have gone from 20 cm to about 4 ft, so be prepared for them to outstrip your initial heigh expectations if they are happy. If they are intermediates, they will try to off-shoot at every junction (you can see the baby shoots at the V-intersection between two existing main shoots), so pluck those away everywhere except at the top. You'll also want to thin the tom leaves out because they will get thick and happy and green, but at the expense of fruit. Also remove the lower tom leaves as they can get a bit soggy and disease prone. Buy yourself some garden twine because you'll be at it every week or two to keep the toms supported. I find the toms are quite temperamental, they are prone to yellowing and disease. Keep an eye out for caterpillars, around spring they can come without warning and start putting holes all through your leaves and fruit. I was out daily for about a week in October crushing hundreds of tiny little green caterpillars before they could decimate the plants. Also after excessive water some toms can split, so take those off the vine and refrigerate - eat quickly before they spoil. Any green toms that fall off you can put them next to bananas in the fruit bowl and they'll ripen up nicely. I find my collected unsplit toms last 1-2 weeks in the fruit bowl. Taste is beyond anything in the supermarket! That's my experience, hope it helps. Oh last thing - use good soil to start up, I was filling raised beds so I bought new soil. Next year I will rake in my first year of compost when re-doing the used beds. If you have good soil and it drains, you don't need to do anything else like sand. I used raised beds because I am sitting on clay-type soils with lots of shale under the surface = no good for veggies.

- Tom

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