Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec

Not recommended for growing in Australia - tropical regions

  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

04 Mar 21, gary (Australia - temperate climate)
what soil preparation is best for broad beans,my crops are getting less every year?
21 Mar 21, Tony (Australia - temperate climate)
I use good old chicken manure (Rooster Booster or similar) and dolomite lime. Dig both in well a few weeks before planting. Don't forget to plant your broad beans in a different spot than the year before
21 Apr 20, Lea Zimmer (Australia - temperate climate)
This is a worry to me.. My greenhouse seedlings are dying. What can I do. The soil is wet, Do I need artificial lighting and heating. Can someone advise Thank you
22 Apr 20, M (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Are you playing around with a toy greenhouse from Bunnings or Aldi or do you have a decent size one, like 4-5m x 5-6m. IF your soil is WET WET then you are over watering it. Do you have heavy clay soil or loamy soil. MAKE your soil more friable by adding compost, manures etc. Water should drain through soil easily. I t should not sit on the top for any length of time. A greenhouse protects the plants from the drying sun so water less. Little plants only need a light watering each day for the first week or so, then a good watering each 2-3 days.
17 Apr 20, Meg (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What does it mean in the description to pick the tops once the plants settle?
28 Aug 21, Janet (Australia - temperate climate)
I was interested in this also. It might be a typo but they said "start setting" not "settle". I believe they mean when the pods begin to form ie to set pods. As for the blackfly, Wikipedia was no help. Sometime tiny black bugs appear on the soft new foliage at the top of my plants. I assumed they were aphids.
02 Dec 21, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
Most likely the bugs are aphids. Ants actually enslave or farm the aphids. The aphids are placed on the juiciest part of the fava bean plant by the ants; and the aphids suck the sap. The aphids then excrete honeydew which is what the ants are after. I generally just hose off (water spray) the aphids - I have also found an organically acceptable spray/pesticide to target the aphids; I try to limit the use of the spray opting for water. You should take action as soon as you see aphids.
21 Apr 20, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
At the top of the broad bean plants there is a growing point - a cluster of new leaves -. When your plants have reached about a metre high (or less for small varieties) , pick out that bunch of leaves. It helps to prevent black fly infestations and encourages the plant to produce more beans from side shoots.
16 Apr 20, Suem (Australia - temperate climate)
What does it mean when it says "Pick the tops out once beans start setting (to prevent blackfly) ."
05 Apr 20, Robert Pye (Australia - temperate climate)
I was told to plant the seed so they mature for harvest in September, is that correct?
Showing 21 - 30 of 268 comments

Update June 01, 2021 - I have lots and lots of fava beans - and am continuing to get more and more. It looks like it will take until the end of the month to bring them all in. So these beans will take about 320 days from planting to full harvest. The haul was great and I am pleased with the overwintering process - very pleased. The beans that I planted in spring are still a ways off from producing beans -- the plants are also much smaller, and I doubt they will put forth as many beans as the favas that were overwintered. The overwintered favas are a mess, with the tarp damage and some favas rocketing up to what looks to be 9 feet, reaching for the sun (they are in a shady location) - but I am pleased. If I had only grown the spring planted favas, I might have given up on favas all together...... but overwintering seems to be the key here in Victoria, British Columbia for a really good crop of beans...... and I would even grow these in the winter for the greens -- they take a bit of getting use to (as did spinach for me when I was a child) -- but once you get use to the greens they are great. The greens taste like fava beans, and not like any other green. I have a few corrections from my first few posts: 1. when I said I lost 1/3 of the plants that were not covered during the really cold week --- it should have said I lost a third of each plant that was not tarped: so if the plant was 9 feet, I had to cut it back to 6feet. The number of plants actually lost was zero. While I only lost a portion of SOME of the tarped plants and when there was a loss it was about 10% of the plant. Also the plants not covered where in a much windier location (think one step and your off a 12 foot drop and in the Pacific Ocean--so lots of wind) -- the plants that were covered where a couple of meters away from the drop off, and there is noticeably less wind there. So whether or not the tarp really makes a difference here is still debatable; the difference may have been wind chill. 2. when I said I used the fava bean leaves as a garnish in my soups over the winter; it was really more akin to a side salad on top of my soup -- big handful of leaves -- sometime harvested based on a branch breaking due to wind. Stems were ground into pesto. Again, I'm very pleased with overwintering my favas; and expect that in the future I will only overwinter rather than spring plant. Winters here are RAINY with lows at about -2 (and extreme lows as cold as -6 last winter), it is also overcast here during the winter with very few sun breaks.... luckily I get a lot of reflection off the water when the sun does peak through. I grew 4 varieties of fava; including the extra early violets; all performed well; the violets are the prettiest if you take them to the dried pod stage; they all taste about the same.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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