Growing Beans - climbing, also Pole beans, Runner beans, Scarlet Runners

Phaseolus vulgaris, Phaseolus coccineus : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P            

(Best months for growing Beans - climbing in USA - Zone 6b regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 4 - 8 inches apart
  • Harvest in 9-11 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Sweetcorn, spinach, lettuce, summer savory, dill, carrots, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry, cucumbers, zucchini, tagates minuta (wild marigold)
  • Avoid growing close to: Alliums (Chives, leek, garlic, onions), Florence fennel

Your comments and tips

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04 Jan 16, kiconco prima (Australia - temperate climate)
how many weeks do climbing beans take to flower
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03 Jan 16, andrew sgears (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have an abundence of flowers but have only had 2 beans so far.Have tried most things.I am at a loss
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27 Aug 15, Tony (Australia - temperate climate)
If you r having problems with your scarlet runners flowering but not producing beans ,in late afternoons when the sun has gone ,give your vines a light misting with the hose ,making particular attention to fine spray all the flowers ,you will find this will work even after one or two applications ,avoid spraying if it's too hot ,and never in the heat of the day ,give it a go .Tony
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04 Aug 15, Chris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Might be curl grubs in the soil, dig deep down and see. There is a spray to get rid of them.
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23 Jul 15, Jean (Australia - tropical climate)
We can grow most vegetables successfully but never have any luck with beans. I have planted some and they are looking pale and not growing. The soil has lots of old horse manure and I fertilise my veggies fortnightly with seasol . Last week was cold for our area and we had frost. The plants are watered regularly. I would appreciate your advice on what we are doing wrong. Thank you
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23 Jul 15, Prometheus (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
It depends how cold your winters are; if you've had frost and temps are dropping below 15 degrees at night, it's currently too cold to be growing green beans with great success. I've only grown broad beans in the past and they were quite tolerant of temps into the low 30s, so provided your Spring doesn't heat up too quickly you're probably best waiting until late August or even September. Again, really depends on the nightly lows. Also beware that Seasol is merely a tonic, not a fertiliser (it doesn't have the nutrients in appreciable quantities to make a difference). The same company makes a comprehensive liquid fertiliser called 'Powerfeed' which, combined with Seasol, has worked wonders for my container chillies in the past (the standard version isn't certified organic but there is a certified organic version available now, albeit much diluted compared to the standard version). Depending on how many nutrients are left over from the manure, the lack of regular fertiliser may also be the problem - so I'd try something like Powerfeed or Searles 5-in-1 liquid fertiliser in addition to the Seasol (every week or two). Best of luck
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04 Feb 15, Shamim (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Green locust is eating away pomegranate leaves. How do I get rid of them?
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16 Oct 14, Kevin Wilson (Australia - temperate climate)
when do I start fertilising scarlet runners
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09 May 14, Pat O'Donnell (Australia - temperate climate)
the edge of some of the leaves appear to be wilting or being attacked by some bug
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20 Apr 14, tyler (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I live in Hobart tasmania can I plant my beans now?
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There are two main things to think about when practicing crop rotation. The first; what condition (nutrition, minerals, tilth) will this crop leave the soil in. In this case your current crop is beans -- they fix their own nitrogen, so their roots will be full of nitrogen nodules (little white bubbles) and provided you just turn the roots into the ground -- the nitrogen will be available for the next crop. So your next crop CAN BE a heavy nitrogen feeder -- there should be lots of nitrogen there. Also beans do a surprisingly good job at breaking up the soil...maybe breaking up is too strong a word -- beans leave the soil very light and well blended with good aeration. Beans are not heavy feeders and therefore you don't need to worry about them depleting the soil of anything in particular, a basic application of manure should restore things. -- The Second concern of crop rotation is ; pests -- what pests did the beans attract ? Generally beans attract slugs and the sort of insects that feed on tender leaves (as young beans have very nice tender leaves) -- so ideally you want to plant something that these insects/slugs don't feed on -- something like tomatoes (their leaves are not suitable -- or tend not to be suitable for slugs). Then review what you would like to plant -- and determine the plant that best suits the conditions. Nightshades tend to be the most typical choice to follow beans -- Nightshade is a family of plants that includes tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, and peppers. Since you are probably already set up with poles - I might go for indeterminate tomatoes (which are really vines and require support).

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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