Growing Beans - dwarf, also French beans, Bush beans

Phaseolus vulgaris : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P            

(Best months for growing Beans - dwarf in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 5 - 15 cm apart
  • Harvest in 7-10 weeks. Pick often to encourage more flower production.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Sweetcorn, spinach, lettuce, summer savory, dill, carrots, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers, tagates minuta (wild marigold)
  • Avoid growing close to: Alliums (Chives, leek, garlic, onions) Sunflower

Your comments and tips

27 Aug 11, (Australia - tropical climate)
try an organic spray
16 May 11, arthur (Australia - temperate climate)
Dwarf beans May the 10. Do you add lime to to your soil a coup[e of weeks before planting beans-peas, cabbage etc? Soil balance is important.Arthur. (only small amounts)
10 May 11, Leanne (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I planted my bean seedlings 2-3weeks ago and I noticed that the leaves all have white/yellow spots on them. Any idea what might be wrong with them or what I need to do?
05 Oct 10, Jumbee (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Bean seeds germinated properly and I have planted as directed in the packet. Should I put any support for the plants for climbing? Or its okay to let them grow by their own? because I found the stem is very soft. Thank you.
10 Dec 10, steven (Australia - temperate climate)
I have the same question do I need to use stakes or some other form of support ?
15 Feb 11, Alexis (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi - you don't need to stake dwarf or bush beans. They only grow to 40-60 cm tall and support themselves. Climbing beans, on the other hand, of course need something to climb up.
10 May 11, Colby (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I don't stake my beans. But I do put stakes at the end of each row and run some string along both sides of the row so it can hold up the branches. So they are leaning over the string. It keeps them off the groung and stops them from getting to tangled.
28 Jan 13, Mos (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I like the idea of the stakes and string. I shall try that.
18 Apr 10, Heck (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted dwarf beans for the third time and once again as they reach a height of about 20 cm the stalks go brown and become very soft and the leaves turn yellow and the plant falls over and karks it. I don't think I'm over watering them but we have had a lot of rain of late. I need help please
28 Apr 10, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Maybe bean fly (see comment below from brian)
Showing 81 - 90 of 108 comments

When and if you plant your beans too closely together (or if you plant in the shade) - they will REACH for the light, becoming very leggy. Planting too close together stops the light from hitting the sides of the plant (plants in the middle are effectively in the shade with exception to the top portion), only the top portion of the plant gets sunlight and therefore the plant reaches that way.... "up". You could, if you were planting only one row provided the row ran N/S plant closely together because 2 sides get full sun (if rows run W/E the plants in the same row tend to shade each other -- plant large plants on the North side of rows that run N/S; this is Northern Hemisphere). That's why spacing is usually given as, between plants (within a row that runs N/S) and then the distance between rows (running W/E). Of course if you are planting on a steep slope, than run your rows parallel to the slope as a general rule of thumb This is the above ground portion of plant spacing. There is also the below ground portion of plant spacing: roots, water and nutrition. If you were to just look at the root (and ignore for a moment the above ground portion): tap rooted plants can be planted closer together than fibrous root plants, because the tap root goes DOWN, and fibrous spreads out and down. Companion planting takes root and sunlight requirements into account: for example: you can plant carrots AROUND a tomato plant ; because carrots don't need much light (and the tomato does), and carrots being a tap root don't interfere with the fibrous roots of the tomato plant, which just go around the carrot. Mind you when you pull the carrot you do disrupt the tomato a little; but not so much that I would be concerned. You can get more vegetables in a smaller space when you learn which plants can work as "understory" plants to others. When it comes to plant nutrition; spacing ensure there is enough soil to source the appropriate vitamins and minerals a plant requires. When planting tightly; or using companion planting you need to take into account that you are planting tighter than the recommended spacing and therefore increase the nutrition (manure/compost) in areas where tight planting is happening.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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