Growing Asparagus Pea, also Winged bean

Lotus tetragonobolus : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P              

(Best months for growing Asparagus Pea in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 59°F and 68°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 8 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-11 weeks. Pick early, pick often.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Best grown in separate bed

Your comments and tips

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24 Nov 20, Anon (United Kingdom - warm/temperate climate)
Try a few seed selling internet sites. The main growing time in Sydney is in the autumn and winter to early spring. Go to the Temperate Climate Zone for Australia. At the top of the page on left side is PLANT NOW. That will tell you what to plant each month. I would suggest she grow things she likes to eat. Radishes , lettuce, normal peas, beans. Be sure you plant them at the right time. She can buy some seedlings at Bunnings or any nursery. That will give a good result for starting out.
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25 Aug 19, A. K. (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
Where can I get the winged beans seeds in South Africa?
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10 Nov 20, Astrid (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
If anyone is looking for seeds, I found some online at sandveldorganics.co.za - excellent service, speedy delivery.
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26 May 19, Theresa (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I live in Newcastle and grow winged bean in my garden. It is the second year I tried to grow this plant. First year the plant died in winter but the root is still alive so I continued to grow them last spring. They have some flowers( white/purple) right now and have some fruits already. However, the fruits are very tiny, after two weeks still not much growth. Does it mean the weather in Newcastle is too cold for my winded beans? I got another type of seeds which claims it will flowers in colder climate but need to wait until spring time. Thanks for your time.
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15 Jan 19, Daniel Pawlenko (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I grow winged beans in brisbane and its all set up with drip lines .It's very hot here and dry at the moment and I'm exspiriencing hard dark green beans at the moment. Does anyone know if this is from hot temps or not enough water. Kind Regards Daniel
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16 Jan 19, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You will more likely have far better success planting in the early autumn to early spring. Trying to grow things in summer in S E Qld is a hard game in summer(HOT, WINDY, storms) - have a rest and work on building your soil up for March/April planting.
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28 Oct 18, Phil M (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in the Adelaide region and my winged bean plant has just completed a massive burst of flowers and crop. This seemed completely out of season as it was planted at least a year ago, barely survived summer without flowering throughout, survived winter without a problem (which seems to contradict its need for higher soil temperatures), then in mid-August took off with growth and flowers. I've just cut it right back so is it possible it will start new growth and survive another season?
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01 Nov 18, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Have a look at this article www.bbg.org/gardening/article/the_asparagus_pea
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01 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I can't find if they are annual or perennial. Sounds like annual. Let them grow and see what happens.
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10 Nov 18, Phil M (Australia - temperate climate)
After two weeks with regular watering, it has succumbed to nature, dried up and died, so it's definitely an annual. Contrary to what it states on the seed packet, I will not be starting off new seedlings until towards the end of summer and hoping for a repeat burst of flowers in late winter and early spring. Thank you also Liz for that article... what struck me in the comments section there was this from a Canberra grower.... 'I live in Canberra, Australia, and can report that I sowed some asparagus peas last spring. They didn’t produce much that season but, amazingly to me who had thought they wouldn’t last our winter here, they are flowering profusely and bearing fruit now, the second month of spring. And temperatures this winter got down to -7C!' This is very much how my own plants responded.
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Showing 31 - 40 of 120 comments
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I believe beans (winged beans or winged peas as they are called) are medium rooting depth --> that is 18" to 24". You can go online and search for rooting depth of vegetables and you'll get a table that shows: very shallow, shallow, medium, deep and, very deep rooted vegetables. Where very shallow is under 12" , shallow: 12"-18", medium 18"-24", deep 24"-36", very deep 36+". This is also what they call the EFFECTIVE root zone -- so in reality the plant can go deeper. Tomatoes are deep or very deep rooted (and tend toward the 36+" side) -- but many people grow them in containers that are about 18" deep -- the growth is a bit stunted, but other than that they look fine. So when you see that beans like about 24" of depth, that does not mean you can't successfully grow them in a 15" deep pot. I have found that VOLUME of soil is more important than total depth (it's a bit of a give and take) -- but lets say a 10" deep half barrel would be better suited for winged beans than a 24" deep narrow fluted container. Plants sent out roots to collect the necessities of life; water, macro nutrients (N, P, K, calcium etc.) and micronutrients (boron, iron, zinc etc.) - the roots also provide stability. Beans fix their own nitrogen but still need all the other nutrients and I have found benefit greatly from an application of micro nutrients. Whatever container size or shape you choose you need to ensure all the necessities of life are available for the plant; good aeration in the soil (look at orchid pots if you want to understand really good aeration), enough water, nutrients in a timely fashion. A small pot with little soil volume will need to have nutrition added regularly, as the plant will quickly use up all the supplies available in the soil. Further, I have found that pots with a lot of surface area give me plenty of room to top up the plant with compost or manure -- if you don't have room to top up the soil you need to use liquid fertilizers (like making you own leachate - or buying some commercial fertilizers). I remember when I wanted a container garden (my first ever container garden in the city - having always planted plants directly in the soil as containers tend to be expensive) -- anyhow, I learned the hard way HOW FAST the nutrients get used up in containers -- containers tend to require a lot of amendments (fertilizer) compared to plants in the soil for two reasons: 1. plants in the soil can send their roots out further scooping up nutrients, and using what is already there -- like minerals from rocks 2. nutrients tend to also LEACH out of containers when you water; and you are less likely to leach out your nutrients even in raised beds as you need have "run off" to do so. Hope this helps with your decision on size and shape of your pot !!!

- Celeste Archer

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