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Showing 31 - 60 of 13713 comments
Chilli peppers (also Hot peppers) 29 Mar, Gavin Mutimer (Australia - temperate climate)
Keep getting a maggot like larva in my chillies I know it's been infected when I see a little hole been bored in the fruit I do not know if it is a fruit fly or something else no one can tell have asked many people hard to treat if don't know what it is
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Onion 27 Mar, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
Last year I had quite a few of my small Onions and Parsley cut off at the base. I suspect the culprit is a Blue Tongue Lizard, i have noticed full grown and baby Blue Tongues in the garden. While I dont want to hurt the Blue tongues, I want my crop to grow. I saw somewhere that Lizards dislike Vinegar. I am going to spray a row of Onions with Vinegar and see if this keeps the Beasties away. Has anyone tried this, or any similar way to deter Blue Tongues. Cheers. Pete.
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Yacon (also Sunroot) 27 Mar, (Australia - temperate climate)
My yakons still have some leaves on them and new shoots growing already, it is the start of April in a temperate climate, Australia. When should I harvest them, do I have to let the plant die back, what happens to the new shoots. Regards Maureen
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Carrot 24 Mar, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been planting Carrots, Beetroot and Parsley. When the small shoots appear, I suspect they are being eaten by Blue Tongue Lizards. Does anyone know a humane way to deter the lizards. I love them dearly but they are driving me crazy. Cheers Pete.
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Carrot 25 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You need some kind of protective barrier. A frame work with some insect netting maybe.
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Rosella (also Queensland Jam Plant, Roselle) 23 Mar, Michael (Australia - temperate climate)
What other plants can you grow with this plant to maximise the ground space.
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Rosella (also Queensland Jam Plant, Roselle) 25 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
They need their space and nutrient from that space to produce a good crop.
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Tomato 21 Mar, Louise Shaw (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Can I grow tomatoes all year round and do they reproduce
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Tomato 05 Apr, (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Read the notes here for cool mountain areas. Plant spring 8-17 until harvest and then pick for a few months ??? Tomatoes left on the ground will self germinate when the soil temperature is right for germination.
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Potato 21 Mar, Pete (Australia - temperate climate)
Its late March and I am on the NSW Central Coast. My seed potatoes from last year have well and truly sprouted. I have planted a dozen or so, and realising that it is very early, I am curious to see what sort of yeild I will get. Anyone have any advice, or experience with planting spuds so early? Cheers Pete.
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Potato 29 Mar, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
When I harvest potatoes, if I don't get all the potatoes up properly -- then potatoes will grow the following year -- and we get temperatures down to about -10c overnight in the winter here -- and lots of rain in fall..... I actually find it difficult to rid an area of potatoes (in case I want to grow something else there) --- so to me, planting a bit early should not be an issue at all.
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Potato 25 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
They should produce a good crop if looked after properly. All seasons vary to some degrees -late maybe early.
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Silverbeet (also Swiss Chard or Mangold) 20 Mar, Lesley rankin (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My new silverbeet leaves are coming up dry and brittle.
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Cucumber 19 Mar, Donna (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My organic cuc’s got smashed with pests this season, I do have 4 more coming on (March) but I’d there a variety that will fruit In SE QLD (Fraser Coast) winter? TIA
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Cucumber 25 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
When there is rain there are pests. Plants generally do not grow well out of season.
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Tomato 19 Mar, warren (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
i would like to grow tomatos over winter in a glass house..any tips on what type
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Tomato 02 Apr, faith Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 18 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Our aubergine never grow more than about 300mm tall and the leaves are purple if they produce fruit it is very small about size of a bantam egg. Any ideas?
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 05 Apr, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
try growing long skinny long eggplant...i found my packet of seeds in a Asian food shop. the brand name is( known you ), under eggplant ........i live gold coast qld and they are the best ....
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Eggplant (also Aubergine) 25 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Ar4e you growing them in the right season and is your soil fertile.
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Beetroot (also Beets) 18 Mar, Alan Booth (Australia - temperate climate)
We live in Newcastle which I believe is situated in temperate climatic conditions. Is March/ April a suitable time to grow baby beetroot?
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Rocket (also Arugula/Rucola) 11 Mar, Jen (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am looking for Winter Rocket..... is this just another name for seeds I buy as rocket.. or what do I look for?
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Rocket (also Arugula/Rucola) 22 Mar, Tanya (Australia - temperate climate)
Arugula another name. You do not need to plant it every year - for example, in my garden (Perth) they grow and self-seed all year round! Just let them do their own things. Technically, my garden is in Automatic mode, other plants do exactly the same.
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Rocket (also Arugula/Rucola) 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Look up an internet site to see the different varieties.
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Watermelon 11 Mar, Lea (Australia - temperate climate)
How long do they take from seed
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Watermelon 22 Mar, Celeste Archer (Australia - temperate climate)
From seed to harvest involves two phases: 1. Germination (from seed to seedling) 2. Days to harvest which is from seedling to harvest. For your seeds to germinate you need proper germination temperatures and some water (and sunlight). The germination temperature and days to germinate varies by variety -- watermelon seeds tend to like VERY warm temps for germination with germination in about 3 days at 30c and about 10 days at 20c. I would factor about 14 days for germination as a general rule of thumb. Days to harvest varies by variety with smaller varieties taking about 60 days and larger varieties taking closer to 90 days. ‘Charleston Gray’ harvests in 85 days, while Little Darling takes 65 to 70 days, Carolina Cross takes 100 days. I think most varieties fall into the 80-90 day category. Overall, I would allow 114 days, provided the conditions are GOOD (close to optimal) for watermelon from seed for most varieties -- and about 85 days for the smaller (smallest varieties) and you're looking at about 120 days for the really LARGE watermelons.
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Watermelon 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Read the notes here.
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Watermelon 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Read the notes here.
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Cape Gooseberry (also Golden Berry, Inca Berry ) 29 Feb, Isabel Clarke (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
A colleague gave me 5 or 6 fruit from her tree and said I could just pop the whole fruit into a pot and it will grow? Will it or do I need to open up the fruit and take seed out? Pls can you tell me what to do with them?? Thanks :)
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Cape Gooseberry (also Golden Berry, Inca Berry ) 19 Mar, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Just break it open and scatter the seeds about 100mm apart - best for when you go to transplant them.
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Showing 31 - 60 of 13713 comments
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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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